That's Pema's favorite saying here in the Khumbu. To translate that in western terms it would read: A Lot Up, A Lot Down. Sherpas are funny when it comes to hiking conditions. But that's the Himalaya in a nutshell, both physically and mentally.
See, I thought I'd actually relax having already been here before. I know the terrain. I know the drills. But like any extreme environment, the mountains and remoteness of the area aren't here to coddle you. They're here to teach you. And they employ a rollercoaster style curriculum that, in my estimation, will never be recognized or endorsed by the American public school system.
So, what have I learned? I've been selfish this year. And I've now been rewarded for this transgression with a potent brand of loneliness that only this corner of the world can dole out. Karma has a way of kicking your ass when you're on its turf. Now, that's not to say that I haven't enjoyed the company of the Lama of Thame and his wonderful family (and their broken english), or the fabled Spanish Nun who lives high above the monastery who taught me the basics of meditation, or even my non-english speaking porter, Jatar, who not only is younger than me and has two kids but refuses to get passed on the trails. Which is to say, we set a number of tourist trekking land speed records from village to village. Someone look up the time from Namche Bazar to Thame and then let me know if 2 hours and 45 minutes is impressive.
However, once nightfall comes, and you retire to the frigid thin air of your room...reality sets in. It's just you. And if your self-confidence wavers in the slightest, well, good luck trying to have a peaceful night.
But like I mentioned, it is a rollercoaster here. Lonely nights are replaced by epic days of beauty and physical accomplishments that lead to a renewal of self-confidence. Nevertheless, wanting to share this adventure grows with every passing day. So do the thoughts of spending the New Year with friends and family back home.
Yeah, so much for a relaxing time, huh?
1 comment:
If you made this trip for one reason and one reason only, it is for the introspection that you become severely aware of during those lonely nights. This frying pan to the head dose of reality sounds like it's just what you needed.
Just remember: "A lotus for you, a buddah to be."
-Seb
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